In the far north-eastern part of Norway local tour operators take tourists to visit the Russian border. In summer 2022, a few months after Russia has attacked Ukraine, Western visitors come to gaze towards Russia and to feel the reactivated tension. But who feels the tension, and is it really there? Kirkenes, a small border town in the far north-eastern part of Norway, has built an identity on its relationship with the Russian neighbours. Even the local tourism industry brings the Western visitors to see the border. In 2022, however, Russia declares war on Ukraine and the town is in shock: all cross-border contact is suspended, yet they are still neighbours. What about tourists, will they come anymore? Those who still come join tours to gaze towards Russia and experience tension reminiscent of the Cold War period. But who actually feels the tension and is it really there?